My expensive Norwegian rebel lifestyle, with my “African” friends from Oslo.


The main reason for my visit to Oslo, other than to travel to Longyearbyen, the northernmost town in the world, was to visit my friends Anna and Steinar. I met them last year in Kenya and we travelled together south through Tanzania, Malawi and Zambia.


Today one of the most iconic buildings of Oslo is the Opera House, constructed in 2007, incredibly ahead of schedule and under budget, a concept which is completely unheard of in my home province of Quebec. Even on time and roughly on budget is a completely fictional concept.


Reminiscent of an iceberg, its strange angles make it possible to just walk up on the roof, from which you get a nice view of the city.


Including this section of brand new narrow, modern buildings, nicknamed “the bar code”. Continue reading

7 top travel destinations for “Wow!” factor.

A travel story can often be a good conversation piece, whether you are killing time at the airport, agonizing on a blind date gone wrong or waiting for death to take you during a really boring conference. Unfortunately, the story of you getting drunk at an all inclusive resort in the Dominican Republic is unlikely to do the trick. What you need is “Wow!” factor. Of all the places I have travelled to in nearly a hundred countries, 97.67% fall in the “Low Wow Factor” category. Here are 7 that don’t:

1. North Korea


Mass Games: 100,000 people putting on a show in the world’s biggest stadium.

We only hear crazy stuff about the Hermit Kingdom. When Kim Il-Sung died, he went from “President for Life” to “President for Eternity”. His son pulled the same move, so North Korea is now the only country where the Head of State, the Head of the Ruling Party and the Head of the Military are people who are, well, not technically alive. But the truth is, 99.5% of the time, North Koreans are perfectly normal people doing perfectly normal things (being Asian, that means smoking, drinking and singing karaoke). 0.5% of the time, they are totally wacko! Not only will you see things that will likely never exist anywhere else ever again, but if you chose the right travel company, North Korea can be a crazy party destination. Possibly my best trip ever.


Don’t worry, the roller coaster is German built.

Wow factor:  Very high

Difficulty:      Low (Chinese visa for transit)

Danger:         Very low (high if you MUST share your love of Jesus while visiting)

Cost:              Very high


Nothing more romantic than visiting the Kims on your wedding day.


Marked streets; to line-up people for parades.


That’s when the crowd goes wild!


2. The Danakil Depression, Ethiopia


Lakes of acid, Dallol.

National Geographic called the Danakil “the cruelest place on Earth”. With the highest yearly average temperature on the planet (above 34 Celsius), lakes of sulphuric acid, a boiling lake of lava and hordes of hostage taking terrorists from the neighbouring rogue country of Eritrea, the Danakil is not the most welcoming place. While 100% toilet-free, you will never have to go behind a bush, because there are no bushes. Continue reading

Water? Check. Polar bear detecting dog? Check. Rifle? Check. Let’s go climb Trollsteinen!

Trollsteinen is a mountain with a strange rock on top that looks like a troll, just a few kilometres from the northernmost town in the world, Longyearbyen. As with most activities in Svalbard, you have to go with an organized trek, unless you want to rent a gun, which is rather expensive. Due to the permanent threat of polar bears, leaving the settlement unarmed is not allowed – and it’s stupid.


We left from Nybyen, a “suburb” of Longyearbyen, just 2 km away. This apparently useless separation dates back to the old days, when mining company and government administrators wanted to keep a certain segregation between the workers and themselves and their families.


Longyearbyen is surrounded by incredible walls of mountain cliffs.


Our guide Alex the geology student (packing the rifle), helps his dog cross a rather intense stream of melted glacier water. Continue reading

Barentsburg: A step into the high Arctic past, as the past steps into the future.

For some time now, I had been hoping to make the hike from Longyearbyen, the most northern town in the world, to the Russian mining settlement of Barentsburg, about 50 km away. Unfortunately, because of the dangerous and remote terrain, the threat of polar bears and the difficulty of communication, doing the trip alone would not be safe at all. Since finding a partner for such a hike is not very easy, I opted for the easy solution, a day trip by boat.


Leaving Longyearbyen in the morning: it took a couple of hours to reach the first site.


I spent part of the time watching the local birds, who would glide extremely close to the water, I presume to try and catch a fish by surprise (something I did not witness).


Approaching the Esmark glacier, we found the bay quite full of floating ice.


The guys who run the tours go several times a week and mentioned that the glacier have been cracking and falling in the ocean very fast in the past week.


If you have ever taken a boat tour to see a glacier, you know what comes next. The same thing happened to me in Iceland. The crew hauled up some ice. What for?


For drinks, of course!


Whiskey on the rocks. The whiskey was made during Obama’s first term in office. The water in that ice was last in liquid form approximately 8,000 years before the first term in office of Julius Caesar. Continue reading

1,318 km from the North Pole: my visit to the northernmost town on Earth!

The amazement of a visit to the northernmost town on the planet begins well before landing.


Flying 3h straight north from Oslo, in July one sees the early signs of the midnight sun, as it begins to rise around 23:30, as you move further and further north. Down below, mysterious peaks of northern Norway break through the low clouds.


Two hours later, any sign of a red horizon are gone, as the sun never gets low enough to produce that effect in the summer. Below, the barren, isolated and remote mountains of southern Svalbard. I couldn’t help but think that this was certainly not the best place to contemplate an emergency landing.


You know you are in an unusual place when the flight attendants on a return flight bother to get out of the airport to take “me in front of” pictures!

So, why do people live here? In the first few centuries, people didn’t really “live” here; they trapped furry animals, harvested whales and eventually, extracted coal. Nowadays, coal is the main industry, along with tourism and Arctic scientific research of all kinds. There is also a political reason which I will get into later. But first, coal. Continue reading

Dublin: the most crack I ever had in a single day.

Because of its difficult history, Ireland has been for many centuries a land of emigrants. My home province of Quebec has had three Premiers of Irish descent, a father and his two sons. Perhaps indicative of Irish character, they were elected as leader of three different parties!

Every time a dignitary visits Ireland, the government looks up their ancestry to see if they can find them an Irish ancestor.


“Barack Obama meets Irish cousin in Moneygall” by Pete Souza (Executive Office of the President of the United States) – Licensed under Public domain via Wikimedia Commons

They even did it to Obama, finding him a maternal great-great-great grandfather, who immigrated to New York City in 1850!

Ireland also has a history of political oppression, still visible in some of Dublin’s architecture.


The statue is quite different than most justice statues, indicating that it is not blind to prejudice and that the accused are presumed guilty. It has no blindfold, the sword is drawn and the balance is not quite level. Also, instead of facing the people in the city, it faces the palace. This led Dubliners to compose this little poem in her honour:

“The Statue of Justice, mark well her station, her face to the castle and her arse to the nation!”


The Castle she is looking at. While it was established in the 12th century, most structures date back to the 18th century.


Today everything is predominantly indicated in Gaelic.


And Christ Church Cathedral is used to celebrate mass. For centuries, Catholic mass was forbidden and the church was used as a distillery and brothel. It is known for its mummified animals. When restoration began, they found the organ out of tune. Inspection of one of the tube revealed the presence of a cat which had become wedged inside. Finding the tube still out of tune, they inspected further, and found the rat the cat was chasing when it got caught! Continue reading

Rare travel complaints: possibly my worst Atlantic crossing ever!

I like to write about things that make people want to travel, so I rarely ramble about problems and difficulties. But today, I’ll make an exception, because it’s so ridiculous, it’s funny. Only read if you want to share my pain.

Tuesday, 11:00. I get a text message in Quebec’s Eastern Townships saying my 19:11 Burlington-New York flight is cancelled due to air traffic control. No other option exists to fly me to Dublin that night. I call United, but they tell me that since I booked a Star Alliance reward flight through Air Canada, I have to talk to them. Air Canada says this is ridiculous; in case of same-day irregular operation, the carrier is responsible, but in any case, I have to call not the airline, but the reward program, Aeroplan. Aeroplan also says United should deal with it. When I call United back, the second person I talk to says that of course, it is their responsibility to re-route me. Each call involves 10-30 minutes on hold, including 20 minutes on hold with United, because the lady is on hold herself with US Airways! After 2 hours on the phone, and me saying I can drive to Montreal if options exist there, I get booked on a 19:15 Montreal-Washington-Dublin itinerary, arriving only 5 minutes later than planned. I drive to Montreal through thunderstorms.

Tuesday, 19:30. 15 minutes after the flight should have taken off, we are still in the terminal and they announce that the flight is cancelled, because they don’t have a pilot. No more flights that day. I’m the first at the connections counter, thinking I will likely get a flight tomorrow and a hotel voucher. Nevertheless, I suggest the Montreal-Paris on Air Canada, or anything else that will at least get me across the pond. I get in with no time to spare, as the manager calls the “supreme powers” and re-opens the closed flight for a minute so they can take my luggage. The nice manager offers to escort me through security. I decline, saying I am a member of the Nexus program (a US-Canada “trusted traveller” program). A minute later, I run after him, because for some reason, the Nexus line is closed! The worst part of the day happened on the flight, when I watched the remake of Robocop, but that was self-inflicted.

Wednesday, 09:30 (Paris time). As I am about to land in Paris (on time), I realize I have only 40 minutes to connect (really, 25 minutes to get to the gate), and I’m at the back of a Boeing 777. Tight, but possible. Finally out, I cover about a kilometre to the flight board, look for my gate, and realize it’s not in the same terminal! I have to go through security, take a shuttle bus, etc. I attempt it, just in case of boarding delays, but unsurprisingly, I miss the flight.

They try to book me on the next flight. Full. The next one. Full. The next one. Yes. So I will only have to wait 8 hours at the airport. Noticing I am in seat 6F, I look up the flight on Seatguru, thinking that if Air France operates this flight with say, an Airbus 320, 6F could be a business class seat. A small measure of comforting.

138---02Seatguru informs me the Air France flight is in fact operated by CityJet on a tiny Avro RJ-85, and 6F is the only window seat on the plane without a window. A french giant sits next to me and I have uninterrupted shoulder contact with his shoulder and the non window for the entire flight.

Unlike my luggage, I eventually arrive in Dublin. Turns out that in their haste, the people in Montreal only sent my luggage to Paris, where it sat for 8 hours, waiting to be picked up, while I also waited in the same airport.


I got a convenience kit which included this ridiculously small tube of deodorant. Applying it took several minutes and felt like repainting a piece of furniture using liquid paper. Also a self-inflicted wound: as I get off the airport shuttle, the bus driver points to a street a block from my hotel and says: “You see that street? Don’t go there!”. I settled in my hotel room, quite possibly the worst I have ever had in Europe. The unventilated room has a window I can open, but it opens fully on an exterior staircase used to access this extension of the hotel, at the back of an interior courtyard. In other words, if the screen-less window is open, anyone can simply step into my room. In theory, this could mean my belongings are not safe but luckily, they are all in Paris.

Friday, 09:44. I visited the luggage people at the Dublin airport to inform them I was leaving for Norway. My luggage is now located, but is still in Paris. Hopefully it will eventually feel like joining me in Oslo.

All that complaining being done; I write this from the Copenhagen airport and I had a FANTASTIC day in Ireland yesterday, only sorry that the mishaps cut my already too short stopover in half. I will tell you all about it tomorrow. Well, all I remember anyway.